Melbourne, Liveability & The Perpetual Flux of Time

June saw Melbourne achieve joint 8th place on the Economist Intelligence Unit’s Global Liveability Index. This was a markedly reduced ranking for mighty Melbourne, which had for many years claimed a seemingly perpetual spot near the very top; frequently first, or at least, second of the most livable cities in the world.

Undoubtedly driven by the ongoing pandemic, many great cities have seen a change of fortune. Former European greats like Vienna [12] have faltered in the rankings while essentially covid-free Auckland [1] has now triumphed at the top of the table. No less than four Australian cities have made it into the top 10, with Adelaide [3] and Perth [6] faring strongly. Brisbane [10] also made the cut, and it can only be the scantest of consolations to Melbournians, that their traditional rival Sydney [11] has just missed out of a place at the top table. For better and for worse, many renowned cities have risen, and many have fallen across the globe.

Such change reminds us that great cities, just like great people, are subject to the ever-fickle churn of fortune; rising and falling within the perpetual motion of chance, circumstance, and human endeavor. It was ever thus, and as the father of western history himself observed, from his vantage in the 5th century BCE: 

“… I shall go forward with my history, describing equally the greater and the lesser cities. For the cities which were formerly great, have most of them become insignificant; and such as those that are at present powerful, were weak in the times of old.” [Herodotus, Histories. Book 1.5]

In historical terms, we don’t have to go back that far to view a different Melbourne altogether. One that proudly celebrated itself as the ‘Seventh City of the British Empire’. The iconic 1930’s poster of Percy Trompf, for the Australian National Travel Association, showcasing the Manchester Unity Building, as a poster-icon of confident Australian identity, and an enduring classic of travel advertising. 

Look back again further and another chapter in Melbourne’s fortune emerges when the largely unbuilt settlement exploded exponentially in size, following the boom of the 1850’s gold rush. Melbourne simply could not grow fast enough, and for a time it seemed the whole world flocked to Victoria’s booming city.  

So does the lens of history, constantly focus and re-focus on the fortunes of a metropolis. Time changes many aspects in the circumstance, of nations, peoples, and their cities. Yet, no metropolis – no Athens, no Sparta, no Melbourne, no Auckland – has ever seen the end of flux or the ever-changing nature of fortune. Those that rise now will fall in time, and those that are laid low, have the potential to rise anew.

As a Melbournite, resident, and lover of the city, it’s been hard to miss the scarring effect that four significant covid lockdowns have had on Melbourne. However, knowing the spirit and character of this great city, can any doubt that Melbourne will, rise again.

My Shadow

I am not my shadow and my shadow is not me. Rather, my shadow is a version of me. But we are not the same. 

Yes, we are closely associated, but we each have our own minds.  We are intimate, but we are not one. My shadow represents me. He interprets my actions, but he does not always ‘get’ me. 

I think my shadow admires me. Certainly he emulates, but there is a thin line between adulation and envy. He can also be moody and fickle. Changeable and prone to exaggeration, my shadow can be inaccurate, obscene and even ludicrous in his representations. At these moments, we do not always get on. 

No doubt my shadow thinks me too rigid, and I certainly think him too flighty. Secretly, I think he envies my solidity. Though he tries to anticipate my every move, often I wrong-foot him. Dark and brooding, his resentment builds.

Who leads and who follows is a constant battle of wills between us. But we will never leave each other and we both know that. We are symbiotic. Bonded together. Closer even than family. 

Moving to sunny Australia from overcast Scotland has only strengthened our bond. We rely on each other and hang out together, more than ever before. 

We belong together, though we are not the same.  

Melbourne’s Great Lions

Did you know that Melbourne is dominated by lions? 

When I say lions, I’m not talking metaphorically. I mean actual lions. Mighty beasts, out and about on Melbourne’s streets! Fierce, noble, terrifying, majestic, powerful, glorious lions.  All over this great city.

The lions I talk about prowl Melbourne’s streets. They can be found in many places and most interestingly of all, they have a ruler; a king of this great urban jungle, who resides at the heart of the city.

I felt compelled to explore. I wanted to see these fantastic beasts.  I wanted to meet the mighty one, the mythical El Lion, the king of Melbourne’s city streets.

Befuddled though I was by long weeks of lockdown, I set myself on a great lion adventure. I reasoned it was sensible to start at the Zoo. Great roars and growls drifted over the high walls, yet not a mighty cat could be seen.  Melbourne Zoo was closed, yet lions were within.

Looking for Lions at Melbourne Zoo

I wanted to know what they knew of the Great One.  I resolved to take a chance and shout over the wall “Did the great lion reside within?”  After long paws, this is what followed:

“Nah, not here man. We have pride in our pride, for sure. But shame is, we are in lockdown. We is always in lockdown man.” drifted the throaty chorus. “Take a kyk in the city to seek the Wonderlik. Make like a butterfly and flutter into town”

Not discouraged, I decided to take the advice and began floating into town.

At the Shrine of Remembrance, I found eight mighty lions, each in pairs, at the corners of the stone monument. Each pair led by a young boy, pulling a chariot. Guardians of something precious, each chariot signified a virtue:

      • Patriotism
      • Sacrifice
      • Justice
      • Peace & Goodwill
Mighty Lions at Melbourne's Shrine of Remembrance

Respectfully, I approached the mighty sentinels and asked if any knew the Wonderlik Lion?  

In measured order, the sombre chorus rang:

“We are great, but we stand in honour of the sons and daughters of Melbourne, who sacrificed everything in wars gone by. We do not stray from this our sacred vigil. Roam deeper in the city. Look to the laneways to seek the Great Lion of this city”

One of the great lion urns that adorn the Shrine of Remembrance.

Heartened, I was more determined than ever to maintain my quest. Paying sombre homage to the guardians I floated on, down the grand boulevard.

On the boulevard I passed the monument to King Edward VII, flanked by two grand and regal lions. I stopped to ask my question to them both “Are either of you the Great Lion of this fine city?”  

One of the two Edward VII lions.

Perhaps there was something too casual in my tone. For the response was as cutting as any claw:  

“Be gone with you” came their haughty growl, “We are royal lions. We reflect the regal dignity of a King now laid to rest. He is the only King we recognise. We do not converse with the likes of you.”

Feline somewhat offended – but far from deterred – I hovered steadily on. I had only drifted as far as the old GPO building when, out of the corner of my eye, I sensed I was being watched from above.

A fine looking beast though modest in demeanour, I did not expect him to be the mane event. Though I still had to ask him my well-versed question. His response followed: 

“Well … it is not me, though my masters did make me to reflect the roaring success and grandeur of this prospecting city. My fur is not golden, though be sure that gold paid for me. You will see many like me around this place in the ironwork and plaster facades. We are part of Melbourne’s heritage and grandeur. Fine as we are, we cannot claim to be the Mighty One. Prowl on farther and tell them I scent you.”

A Melbourne GPO lion, high on the facade.

I did as I was bade and at the Tianjin Gardens I encountered two guardians of time, space and culture. Fierce and exotic to my eyes, I was not at first sure if they were lions at all. But they were. Could one of these creatures be the Great One that I sought?

The male guardian lion at Tianjin Gardens.
This playful cub is going nowhere under his mothers protective paw.
The female guardian at Tianjin Gardens.

With trepidation, I asked my familiar question and in response they growled:

“We are not the Great Lion that you seek, though we are fierce and powerful. Our duty is to protect this sacred entrance and drive away all enemies and evil spirits. We are found in pairs. My female consort channeling ‘yin’, resting her great paw upon our playful cub. While I the male, channel ‘yang’, and toy with my ball of imperial influence. Go deeper into the city if you truly seek the King of this Jungle. He has a tail to share.”

Weary I hovered on. Deep now into the city, down streets and laneways, always looking, always seeking. Tall buildings towered above and light itself became reluctant to follow me. I was tired, my spirits low, my energy all but spent.

Turning into a dark and gloomy laneway, a seeming dead-end beckoned. A constraining space holding little promise, though some strange power drew me on. As I progressed, a subtle transformation took effect. Imperceptible at first, though growing with incremental steps, a golden glow grew steadily in warmth and power. By the end of the lane, I was enveloped in light; illuminating the laneway in warmth that almost tingled the skin. The experience held no fear as golden light beaconed me forward, comforting in its warmth. As I rounded the lane and looked up, the source of this power became clear.

The mighty El Lion by CHE @Vivacheman @VivacheDesigns

Magisterial in glory with a glowing yellow mane, adorned by a crown of gold, the Great Lion transfixed me with his gaze. Jewels and medals glittered, reflecting light from his golden coat. The Great One looked down upon me. Powerful and fierce in his gaze, but with no hint of malice.

Noble and powerful in presence he spoke in a deep throaty lullaby:

I am the great one of whom you seek, I am El Lion, the great King of Melbourne’s streets. This laneway is my kingdom and this city my hunting ground. Some pass without knowing I am here, but I am lord of this domain, guarding over this laneway and the night-time revellers of the Butterfly Club. The one who created me, CHE, travelled from foreign lands to share love and contribute to the art of this city. A proud King of this urban jungle and a noble lord of Melbourne, I protect this place. Though not so many have passed in recent months, I stand still true and faithful in my duty, undiminished in my resolve. Time has not faded my vibrancy; pandemic has not weakened me. I will stay where I am set until people come once again.”  

I have never forgotten my meeting with El Lion, or indeed with any of Melbourne’s mighty cats.

Never again have I found myself in that lane and I have many times wondered if any of this was real, or just a dream? Perhaps the months of lockdown really confused my brain?  Perhaps I will never see El Lion again? I cannot be sure.

However, when I think about my adventure, I am reassured by another’s famous words:

He’ll be coming and going … one day you’ll see him and another you won’t. He doesn’t like being tied down – and of course he has other countries to attend to. It’s quite all right. He’ll often drop in. Only you mustn’t press him. He’s wild, you know. Not like a tame lion.”  [C.S. Lewis, The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe]

What I learned from my quest – or dream – is that mighty lions roam all around us. They occupy every part of this great city. They transmit their power, their nobility and their majesty throughout the environment we all call home.

The prestige a lion commands should never be underestimated. Truly, they are the Kings of this our urban jungle.  

The El Lion Mural by CHE @Vivacheman @VivacheDesigns 

To find the El Lion Mural, you will need to look for the clues and search in the city like I did.

The El Lion was created by CHE. Inspired by great lions of his youth like those found in the ‘Wizard of Oz’, and ‘The Chronicles of Narnia’ and other tales. CHE is also a Leo himself and has an affinity with lions.

Crafted in free hand using a 10-foot ladder, the El Lion took 14 hours and was produced using spray paints and latex. As a street art capital of world importance, CHE was drawn to Melbourne to paint the mural and in so doing provide a ‘hidden gem’ for those brave enough to seek it out.

Happy hunting. 

With thanks and credits to CHE of Vivache Designs. The creator of the magnificent El Lion Mural.

www.vivache.com 

Lion motifs can be found all over the city of Melbourne.

The Surgery

In a city conspicuous for it’s high-rise modernity of glass and steel, the man found the old surgery tucked away, low down in gloom, a time capsule of the past, partially forgotten, or so it seemed.

Hidden in a non-descript, concrete building, the surgery was a stagnant box of stale air and synthetic light.  Everything was in stasis, dated to the past. The room had probably felt modern back in the 70’s. It had never since, left that time.

Old, sickly ceiling tiles floated above faded, tired carpet, dragging magnolia walls inward to seal an airless box. Brittle plastic diffusers emitted jaundiced light, sapping life and energy. The room induced feelings of ill-health. It co-opted all but the hardiest into the prerequisite conditions necessary to see the doctor. Time itself grew sickly in that room. A small consolation, if there were one, were that germs themselves might conceivably shun such a bleak environment.  The man had visions of bacteria, crawling for the door.

On the waiting-room wall hung a tired print of Monet’s fog-bleary outline of the Houses of Parliament in London.  It had taken the man until his third visit to place the famous image.  Age and time had rendered the masterpiece so faded as to be almost indiscernible.  The fog of London’s Thames made hazier still by the long slow passage of time. ‘Surgery time’.

In the flesh the Receptionist had warmed up somewhat, employing a business-like formality for the opening engagement.

The man did not know it, but over subsequent visits he learned that like the fluctuating four seasons of Melbourne’s weather, the Receptionist was capable of rapid change. She could exhibit hot and cold spells with everything in between. A frosty chastisement for not filling out a form, or following ‘The System’, could quickly give way to a warm front of genuine affection; a favoured patient, blowing-in mid-gust, to disrupt the prevailing front. In those warmer moments, the Receptionist looked almost youthful, a glimpse of her younger self, showing a kindness and vitality now diminished by years. The summers of our past being almost always more radiant than those of the present.

She existed purely in the physical realm and no computer or smartphone was her dominion. Rather the index-system was mistress here and she a slave to it. Fingering through narrow trays of well-thumbed, yellowing cards, it was conceivable that some represented long-perished souls. When not filing, the Receptionist fielded intermittent calls via the large button telephone, while perpetually ordering the disordered files, that littered the desk.

Behind that desk and without any notion or irony, hung a faded classic, Turner’s iconic ‘The Fighting Temeraire’. The noble sail-ship the Temeraire, the proud glory of her day, ignominiously towed to oblivion by the modernity of a mechanical steamer. Progress held at bay, but never in the end defied.

It did not take long to realise that the surgery induced a clientele that could, conservatively, be described as mature.  In all his visits he did not remember seeing anyone who looked below the age of 60 , with most being far older.

On his first visit the man had been accosted, warmly, by a gentlemen whom he affectionately named ‘The Ambassador’. A jolly, eccentric, of the old School, who was keen to talk and reminisce about travels in past times and past places.  Oblivious to the single sided nature of the conversation, it had resulted in the production of a calling card, the Ambassador extending an invitation: the man warmly invited to call at a later date, “at a time favourable to both parties”.

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